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Creams

FORMULATIONS BASICS: FACIAL CREAM

Before starting
Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
Sample Recipe
To go further

Before starting...

Facial care creams formulations include many kinds of formulations, depending on the nature of the skin or on the desired effects. Either protection against pollution and oxidation is needed or anti-wrinkle activity. Actives may also be added in order to correct an oily/ greasy skin, a dry or a sensitive skin.. Many formulations are basically Oil in Water emulsions or Water in Oil emulsions. The typical skin care emulsion is now more likely to be o/w than w/o. Technology has advanced to the point where w/o stable emulsions can be prepared at room temperature.

Required qualities :

Neutral or pleasant odor and color
Easy to spread, pleasant feeling during application
Easy penetration
Non-oily/ non-greasy after application
Non comedogenic
Well tolerance/ non-allergenic
Bring hydration

Typical Ingredients

Usual Method

Must Use

Emulsifiers	2-6%
Emollients	10-35 %
Thickener	0.1-1%
Deionized Water	Q.S.

Usual

Preservatives	0.2-1 %
Humectants	1-8 %
Consistency factors	1-6%
Antioxidants	0.01-0.05%
UV filters	0.01-0.5%

Optional

Chelating Agents	0-0.02 %
Fragrance	0.1-1 %
Active agents	0.1-2%
Colouring agents	Q.S.
Aesthetic enhancers	0.1-5%

Aqueous phase: Thickener is dispersed in cold or warm water at 75-80�C (depending on the recommandations of the producer) under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. This first phase is combined with the oily phase (Lipophilic components : emulsifiers + emollients + consistency factors) that has also been melted and heated to the same temperature. Mix under intensive stirring until emulsion is formed. Then mix gently while emulsion is being cooled. Sensitive components like actives, special additives and preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30�C) to keep their properties intact.

	Tips
How to vary the consistency of your cream?
- Changing the % of the oily phase allows variations in the final viscosity of your preparation. For Oil in Water emulsion the greater the oily phase the higher the viscosity. Inversely for Water in Oil or Water in Silicone emulsion : the greater the aqueous phase the higher the viscosity.
- Vary the % of thickeners (gelling agents or consistency agents like waxes). However some stabilizers can prevent settling without increasing the viscosity.

Sample Recipe : "Vanishing cream"

Ingredients

Method

Composition	Function	% (w/w)

Phase A
Glyceryl stearate	Emulsifier/ consistency agent	4.00
Stearic acid	Emulsifier/ consistency agent	16.0
Ceteareth-12	Emulsifier	3.00
Octyldodecanol	Emollient	3.00
Paraffinum liquidum	Emollient	3.00
Phase B
Triethanolamine	pH buffer	0.50
Deionized Water		69.3
Phase C
Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, isopropyl paraben	Preservative	0.7
Fragrance		0.5

Phase A and phase Bhave to be mixed and heated separately to 80�C. Add slowly B into A under intensive stirring until the emulsion is formed. Then add more quickly the rest of the phase and keep stirring during a few minutes. Continue stirring gently until the temperature is at 40�C. Then Add phase C. Keep stirring the mixture slowly while it is being cooled.

Properties:

Cream with a pearlescent aspect

To go further..

Dry skin formulation	Ingredients choice criteria:
	- Slow down the TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) by using occlusive emollients in the oily phase (squalane, beeswax, triglycerides, essential fatty acids, silicones..)
	- Reenforce or reconstitute the NMF (Natural moisturizing factor) with adequate additives (sodium lactate, sodium PCA)
	- Bring humectancy with hygroscopic components (urea, allantoin, polyols, hyaluronic acid..)
Enhance aesthetic	As indicated above, aesthetic enhancers may be added: eg- pearlescent pigments, texturing agents, soft-feeling agents like silicone elastomers. The aim is to obtain a product which is sense-awakening !

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