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Shampoo

SHAMPOO FORMULATION

Before starting
Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
Sample Recipe
To go further

Before starting...
A shampoo is a colloidal dispersion of various surfactants in water. Base components of a classical shampoo are cleansing agents, thickeners and water. Most of the time additives and adjuvants are added to the formula in order to help cleansing, enhance aesthetics properties, foaming or make hair shine. Indeed, beauty brought by the product is as important as cleanliness: As long as it is an hygiene product, a shampoo has to maintain a pleasant feel of the hair. Moreover, in the mind of many consumers cleanliness is often associated with foam quantity...So...Shampoos have to foam!

Required qualities:

Cleansing properties without eliminating all surface lipids
Foaming properties
Make hair shine and soft
Make hair easy to comb
Antistatic
Pleasant odor
Non-irritant, non-stinging

Typical Ingredients

Usual Method

Must Use

Surfactants	15-30%
Foam Stabilizers	1-4 %
Thickener	0-5%
Deionized Water	Q.S.

Usual

Preservatives	0,1-1 %
Humectants	1-5 %
PH Buffers	Q.S. neutral pH
Chelating Agents	0-0,02 %

Optional

Pearlescing/ opacifying agents	0,2-2%
Perfume	0,5-1 %
Active agents	0-2%
Colouring agents	Q.S.
Conditioning agents	Q.S. desired effect
UV Filter	0.01-0.1%

Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) in water under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. Then add the surfactants and the other ingredients and mix gently until the product becomes homogeneous. Oil-soluble ingredients (some preservatives, perfume..) should be added by pre-mixing them with a small amount of surfactants.

Tips

How to significantly reduce the overall irritation of your mixture?

By increasing the beta�ne surfactants %. When these ones are combined with fatty alcohol sulfates, they form large anionic-cationic complex which lowers irritation.

Part of anionic surfactants can also be replaced by non-ionic surfactants like alkylpolyglucosides.

Sample Recipe: Clear shampoo

- TOP -

Ingredients

Method

Composition	Function	% (w/w)

Phase A
Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer	Thickener	1.20
Propylene glycol	Humectant	6.00
NaOH (18%)	Neutralizer/PH Buffer	0.40
Sodium laureth sulfate (28% active matter)	Surfactant (primary)	30.00
Propylene glycol, Diazolidinyl urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben	Preservative	1.00
Deionized Water	Diluent	Q.S.
Phase B
Benzophenone-4	UV Filter	0.02
Deionized Water	Diluent	5.00
Tetrasodium EDTA	Chelating agent	0.10
Phase C
NaOH (18%)	Neutralizer/PH Buffer	2.40
Cocamidopropyl Beta�ne	Foam booster (secondary surfactant)	4.00
FD & C Blue No. 1 (C.I. 42090)	Dye	0.002

Phase A : Heat Water (40�C), disperse thickener under intensive stirring. Reduce mixing speed after polymer is dispersed. Then add propylene glycol and NaOH solution. Mix until homogeneity. Add other ingredients of Part A in order.

Mix Phase B ingredients in hot water (30-40�C) and add into Phase A. Add other ingredients in order. Mix until it is uniform.

Properties

Clear, viscous gel, pH 6.5, viscosity = 5500-6500 cP

To go further

Specific substances may be incorporated in order to provide a restoring and protecting effect on hair like natural and modified lipids, amino acids and silicones. They may also have reconstituting effect on the integrity and health of the hair and scalp - such as preventing dandruff and excessive sebaceous secretion.

Baby Shampoos	They should be based on amphoteric surfactants (imidazolinic derivatives or beta�nes, 75 to 100% of total surfactants)

Greasy Hair Shampoo	Its first mission is to eliminate excessive sebum without eliminating all surface lipids. Following actives may be used:
	- sulfur in order to regulate sebum secretion
	- clays to absorb fats

Dry Hair Shampoo	A dry scalp leads to a dry aspect of the hair because of lack of sebum. Cleansing base is composed with a ternary mixture of surfactants (anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic). Formulation is completed by superfatting agents: castor oil, lecithins..

Antidandruff Shampoos	Formulae contain antimicrobial and keratolytic actives (zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine)

2-in-1 Shampoos	Some conditioning agents (polyquaterniums, silicones..) are added in order to help combability

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