We're tracking the origin of lip coloration within the high antiquity.
Egyptian women used to apply on their lips some dyes based on red blood stone or
henna. However the origin of the lipstick such as we know it today begins within
the end of the XIXth century. At this time, actresses used to use mixtures of
beeswax, butter, vine grape extracts or other kinds of natural dyes to be
applied on their lips. Synthetic dyes discovery at the beginning of the XXth
century allowed for a considerable pallet of coloring nuances as well as the
emancipation of the lipstick.
Required qualities :
Consistency must be stable whatever the variations in temperature
Must be applied easily on lips
Must leave a mark as soon as lightly applied
Musn't break during the application
Uniformity of the film
Creaminess and slip are needed, without greasiness
Sufficient adhesion is required
Musn't leave marks when wiped
Easy to remove
Pleasant taste and odour
Non-irritant, non-allergenic
Typical Ingredients
Usual Method
Must Use
Consistency factors/ Waxes
20-55%
Emollients (liquid)
25-70%
Pigments (color)
0.5-10%
Usual
Thickeners/ stabilizers
0-1%
Preservatives
0-1 %
Antioxidants
0.05-1%
Pigments (special effects)
5-25%
Optional
Sunscreens/ UV filters
0-2%
Fragrances/ Flavoring agents
0-1%
Active agents
0-1%
Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted
until 80�C. Pigments may often have to be premixed separately in liquid
emollients mixture. Premixed pigments dispersions should preferably be
used, otherwise pigment dispersion must be as homogeneous as possible.
The mixture can be added to the first hot phase or once the mix has
cooled. Then pour the warm mixture (temperature must be 10�C above its
melting point) into the appropriate moulds. Moulds must be placed into
the refrigerator.
Tips
How to obtain the
wanted mattifying/ shining effect in your lipstick?
Mixing the correct amount of pigments every
time and getting the desired color and effect is an art of its own.
Pigments particles size and nature is varied in order to obtain more
shine or more matt effect. The more the distribution is large, the more
the mattifying effect is high. Mattifying effect is associated with
adhesion (long-lasting). Cosmeticians would like to obtain lipsticks
which join the brilliance with the long-lasting effect to satisfy
consumers. These two properties are contradictory.
Sample Recipe :
Purple fresh kiss
Ingredients
Method
Composition
Function
% (w/w)
Phase A
Beeswax
Consistency factor/ Wax
6
Carnauba Wax
Consistency factor/ Wax
3
Candelilla Wax
Consistency factor/ Wax
7
Ozokerite
Consistency factor/ Wax
4
Polyisobutene
Emollient (liquid)
30
Castor oil
Emollient (liquid)
Q.S.
Mica
Pigments
3
Red 7 Lake
Pigments
2.25
Phase B
Tocopherol acetate
Antioxidant
0.05
BHT
Antioxidant
0.03
Peppermint
Flavoring agent
0.3
Phase A : Components are mixed and
heated into a glass beaker to 70�C. Add Phase B
components while stirring gently after have removed Phase A from heat
until the mix is homogeneous. Then pour the liquid mixture into chosen
molds.
To go further
Consistency
agents/ waxes
Lipsticks are made of a mixture of waxes ("white paste
or body"), oils and pigments. Waxes are chosen considering their melting
point (which varies from 50�C to 90�C) and their specific properties.
They bring hardness and shining. They enhance stability and consistency,
and provide richness to formulations. Most animal origin waxes were used
in the past. They're now widely replaced by synthetic or vegetal origin
waxes (carnauba, candelilla..).
Pigments are non-soluble
components
Thanks to their non-solubility neither in water nor in oil pigments
are permitted in decorative cosmetics. Moreover they are considered to
be non-irritant to mucous membranes. TiO2 is commonly used as an
opacifier. Pigments derived from mica are used and often coated with
titanium dioxide to enhance the range of colors available
What kind of lipstick was
called the kiss of death?
The ancient Egyptians used for lip rouge a reddish purple mercuric
plant dye. They didn't know it was potentially poisonous . Talk about
the kiss of death!
